Avaliação da atividade do extrato hidroetanólico das cascas de Calycophyllum spruceanum (Benth) Hook. F. ex. Schum sobre enzimas de aplicação cosmética

Abstract

Exposure to UV radiation is one of the main external factors responsible for hyperpigmentation and skin aging, and social changes that affect a person psychologically affected. This fact has stimulated the search for new agents, mainly based on natural products. Accordingly, the species Calycophyllum spruceanum, popularly used in the form of cataplasm as anti-inflammatory, rejuvenating agent and as a treatment for the infections caused by fungi, presented as interesting object of study for this purpose. This study aimed to evaluate the effect of hydroethanolic extracts from the bark of C. spruceanum cosmetic application of enzymes (tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase). Initially, we obtained three hydroethanolic extracts, fluid extract (EHF), freeze-dried extract (EHL) and spray dried extract (EHSA), from which assays were performed antioxidant activity, in vitro enzyme inhibition and cytotoxicity. Subsequently, a semi-solid formulation (cream) was manipulated to incorporate the extracts to determine whether the activities of DPPH radicals hijacking, tyrosinase inhibition, iron chelation, hemolysis and pH remained stable or whether the incorporation of assets could change the formulation activities found in extracts tested alone. Testasdas formulations were compared with commercially used product. The EHF was characterized yielding pH: 5.5, density: 0.9575 g/cm3 and 2.5 ± 0.03% of dry matter. The dry extratros showed higher total phenolic content of the EHF and statistically equal. The extracts showed good antioxidant activity on DPPH radical, but lower than that of standard Trolox ®. Only the EHF was active iron chelator. The cellular antioxidant activity was performed with the dried extracts, and EHL EHSA, showing no major difference between the observed effect observed in vitro and in situ, these activities, however, accounted for half of the standard potential of Quercetin. Only the dried extracts showed inhibition of tyrosinase activity being much higher than the EHL EHSA. Inhibition of collagenase by the dry extracts were low and statistically similar. For enzymes elastase and hyaluronidase EHSA the EHL showed activity superior to both being of great interest for potential use as a rejuvenator. The action of the enzyme hyaluronidase EHSA was above the standard Rutin. The extracts showed to be safe for use. The formulations with dry extracts showed activity well above the fluid and the commercial product (PC) in the DPPH assay. The iron chelator activity was observed only in the base formulation and the enzymatic inhibition of tyrosinase was higher in lyophilized formulation containing extract (FBEL) than the formulation containing spray dried extract (FBESA) and was not observed in the other formulations. The FB showed hemolytic potential, however it was observed that the presence of the compounds fluid extract (FBEF) and decreased cytotoxicity in this FBEL the same was not observed. The FBESA showed slightly higher hemolysis presented by the FB. The pH of fomulações was also evaluated (FB: 7.45; PC: 7.31; FBEF: 7.17; FBEL: 5.06; FBESA: 5.29). Note, therefore, the potential for cosmetic use of the species, however, studies for adequate drying method and formulation are required.