Utilização do cogumelo comestível Lentinus strigosus para o desenvolvimento de biocosmético contendo ativo natural

Abstract

Currently, many products useful to man are obtained by biotechnological processes, which arouse great interest among researchers and in the industry. The field of applied bioprocesses, also called biotransformation or enzymatic technology by some authors, is one of the most promising tools of biotechnology. Cosmetology, like other areas of science, has been evolving and increasingly using biotransformation products. Such products are part of activities of great interest to man and should be thoroughly investigated in order to ensure their physicochemical stability and efficacy of use. The objective of this work was to investigate biological activities of extracts obtained from the fungal species Lentinus strigosus and develop a biocosmetic containing biologically active substances. After the formulation and all macroscopic and physicochemical tests were completed, a capillary mask containing the enzymatic fungal extract was obtained. For this purpose, açaí (Euterpe oleracea), mango and taperebá (Spondias mombin) residues were initially evaluated for the growth of the fungus Lentinus strigosus in liquid and solid fermentation. The açaí residue presented the best results and therefore was chosen for the submerged cultivation. A factorial design matrix was elaborated to evaluate the influence of the nutrients that allowed the fungal growth and the obtaining of biologically active compounds. The antioxidant and enzymatic activities of laccase and sun protection factor were evaluated. The extracts of the açaí residue presented antioxidant activity, but the activity in the fungal extracts was not observed after the submerged fermentation of the fungus with the use of this residue. Laccase activity as well as the sun protection factor were evidenced with the evolution of the bioprocess, and according to the factorial design matrix, one of the factors favorable to the enzyme activity was the maintenance of the phosphorus in its highest concentration. After the experiments were carried out in the bioreactor - where the same conditions of the best submerged fermentation result were used - and having observed the sun protection factor, laccase activity, protein, reducing sugars and antioxidant activity, it was elaborated a biocosmetic formulation that contained the activity found in the enzymatic fungal extract. Physicochemical tests were performed to evaluate the best performance and for quality control of the elaborated bioproduct. A qualitative chemical prospecting was carried out (alkaloids, steroids, flavonoids, saponins and tannins and phenols) for the knowledge of the secondary metabolites produced in bioreactor cultivation. The enzymatic fungal extract incorporated into the elaborated formulation presented as a viable raw material for the development of a capillary mask.